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SP GP9e 3882
This model of a low-nose Phase III GP9e was constructed around 1990 from a
Front Range brand product, with a Mashima can motor added. A Tyco GP20
nose and cab front was grafted into the Front Range shell. I installed numerous
detail parts, as well as custom painting and weathering. This model won third place,
diesel category, at the 1991 NMRA-PCR meet in Richmond, CA.
More recently, I installed Soundtraxx Tsunami2 sound decoder,
Scale Sound Systems speaker, TCS Keep-Alive, and LED lighting.
This model of a low-nose Phase III GP9e was constructed around 1990 from a
Front Range brand product, with a Mashima can motor added. A Tyco GP20
nose and cab front was grafted into the Front Range shell. I installed numerous
detail parts, as well as custom painting and weathering. This model won third place,
diesel category, at the 1991 NMRA-PCR meet in Richmond, CA.
More recently, I installed Soundtraxx Tsunami2 sound decoder,
Scale Sound Systems speaker, TCS Keep-Alive, and LED lighting.
For this GP9e, I went whole hog with the full SP light packages at
both ends. The distinctive low nose came from a Tyco GP20 shell,
including the cab front. Small access doors were grafted into the
rear end below the blanked number boards. Added plumbing was
installed on the air tanks behind the fuel tank. The dynamic brake
fan was opened up, a fan scratch-built inside, and Detail
Associates etched grill added on top. Note how Phase III
GP9's had one large fan above the intake and radiator grills.
Earlier GP9s had two small fans (see SP 3770).
both ends. The distinctive low nose came from a Tyco GP20 shell,
including the cab front. Small access doors were grafted into the
rear end below the blanked number boards. Added plumbing was
installed on the air tanks behind the fuel tank. The dynamic brake
fan was opened up, a fan scratch-built inside, and Detail
Associates etched grill added on top. Note how Phase III
GP9's had one large fan above the intake and radiator grills.
Earlier GP9s had two small fans (see SP 3770).
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Right: A photo I found on the
internet of 3882. Phase III GP9's
had one large fan fore and aft, as
opposed to two small fans as
found on earlier phases.
Below: Here is 3882 in the early
1980's showing the full SP rear
light package. From other pics
I found, it appears 3882 kept the
full SP light packages at both
ends right up to retirement.
internet of 3882. Phase III GP9's
had one large fan fore and aft, as
opposed to two small fans as
found on earlier phases.
Below: Here is 3882 in the early
1980's showing the full SP rear
light package. From other pics
I found, it appears 3882 kept the
full SP light packages at both
ends right up to retirement.
entire website copyright Gregg Fuhriman
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created with CoffeeCup Visual Site Designer
-- Layouts
-- Modules
-- Signalling
Right: 3882 has my current DCC
install practices. I solder 2-pin
mini-connectors to the trucks'
metal plates, thereby avoiding
reliance on metal-to-metal contact
for electrical pickup. The mini-
connectors make it easy to
remove the trucks for cleaning
and lubrication.
I use styrene to build a platform
that is taped or glued on top the
motor. The platform provides
mounting surfaces for the DCC
decoder, speaker, and Keep-
Alive. The entire assembly is
easily removable for servicing.
install practices. I solder 2-pin
mini-connectors to the trucks'
metal plates, thereby avoiding
reliance on metal-to-metal contact
for electrical pickup. The mini-
connectors make it easy to
remove the trucks for cleaning
and lubrication.
I use styrene to build a platform
that is taped or glued on top the
motor. The platform provides
mounting surfaces for the DCC
decoder, speaker, and Keep-
Alive. The entire assembly is
easily removable for servicing.
Right: Over the years I've used a
variety of surface-mount LEDs for
locomotive lighting.
For 3882, here is the type I used,
acquired from Digi-Key. They are
rather small and therefore difficult
to handle. To solve this, I made a
simple wooden jig - wood so it
won't melt during soldering. The
LEDs were held in the jig at the
proper spacing and orientation
while I soldered on small-gauge
solid-core wires.
These LED/wire assemblies were
then ACC-glued into the shell
directly behind the light housings,
resulting in bright headlights.
The 4-pin mini-connector was
then soldered to the LED wires.
variety of surface-mount LEDs for
locomotive lighting.
For 3882, here is the type I used,
acquired from Digi-Key. They are
rather small and therefore difficult
to handle. To solve this, I made a
simple wooden jig - wood so it
won't melt during soldering. The
LEDs were held in the jig at the
proper spacing and orientation
while I soldered on small-gauge
solid-core wires.
These LED/wire assemblies were
then ACC-glued into the shell
directly behind the light housings,
resulting in bright headlights.
The 4-pin mini-connector was
then soldered to the LED wires.
Right: To block stray light and
make a sturdier LED attachment,
I built styrene boxes around the LEDs - here the process is in the
early stage.
The LED wires are attached
inside the shell using 3M tissue
tape, which allows easy removal
if the need ever arises.
The wires are typically routed along one edge of the shell to
minimize interference with the
decoder, speaker, etc. once the
shell is seated onto the drive.
make a sturdier LED attachment,
I built styrene boxes around the LEDs - here the process is in the
early stage.
The LED wires are attached
inside the shell using 3M tissue
tape, which allows easy removal
if the need ever arises.
The wires are typically routed along one edge of the shell to
minimize interference with the
decoder, speaker, etc. once the
shell is seated onto the drive.
I also install mini-connectors for the lights mounted in the shell, so the shell is easily detachable from the
drive/decoder. In this case a 4-pin connector is used: one pin for the common function power, one for
controlling the front headlight, one for the rear light, and one for the front gyralight.
I dress this connector to have a "service loop" just long enough to allow the shell to be pulled away from
the drive far enough that I can get ahold of the connector and pull it apart. This minimizes the amount of
extra wire length that must be fitted into the model. Space inside a smaller loco like this is at a premium,
so the arrangement of electricals and lengths of wiring must be carefully planned and optimized.
drive/decoder. In this case a 4-pin connector is used: one pin for the common function power, one for
controlling the front headlight, one for the rear light, and one for the front gyralight.
I dress this connector to have a "service loop" just long enough to allow the shell to be pulled away from
the drive far enough that I can get ahold of the connector and pull it apart. This minimizes the amount of
extra wire length that must be fitted into the model. Space inside a smaller loco like this is at a premium,
so the arrangement of electricals and lengths of wiring must be carefully planned and optimized.